Step 2. Getting Ready
Getting your body in shape
Not everyone can get out of an easy chair, strap on a heavy backpack, and walk hundreds of miles. We’ve found that getting into good condition for the Camino is not only essential, but that it also conveys its own rewards. It is good to lose the extra pounds put on over the winter, to feel strong, and to enjoy walking in the open air. For long training walks we have gone to a nearby state park, and have found walking there to be pleasing and refreshing. Our plan is to begin slowly, gradually increasing the distance walked so that ultimately we’ll be doing a few walks for distances close to what we expect to be doing on the Camino. As our training progresses, we’ll also be testing our gear, wearing the boots we’ll be using on the Camino and, importantly, using our walking sticks and carrying fully loaded backpacks. Rigorous training isn’t always possible, particularly for people who work full time. Also, if one is planning to walk on the Camino in the fall, summertime heat may limit the amount of training possible. If you really can’t train adequately, it is best to begin the Camino slowly. The first few days are difficult no matter how well you have trained, and if you haven’t trained well, it is doubly important not to walk too far the first few days. To the right is a copy of our training schedule for our 2009 Camino. It is rather more elaborate than we’ve used in other years, but illustrates an approach to getting in shape. Note that distances increase as our training progresses and that toward the end we train with backpacks. Typically we would gradually increase the weight in our packs to get to the totals we expect to be carrying on the Camino. In the end, we found our training to have its own rewards. The many hours we've spend just walking around our Florida neighborhood, and those in our nearby San Felasco Hammock State Park have been times we would not trade for any amount of time spent elsewhere. If you have a dog, he will almost certainly enjoy it also. |
How much can you carry?
The rule of thumb is that your backpack and all its contents should way no more than 10% of your body weight. If you weigh only 120 pounds, that doesn’t give you much flexibility. Suppose you have a light backpack that weighs only 4 pounds and you carry 2 liters of water for another 4 pounds. That would leave you only 4 additional pounds for everything else—clothes, rain gear, sleeping bag, toiletries, electronics, guidebook, etc. It seems hopeless at first. On our early Caminos we aimed for 15% of body weight, and usually exceeded that amount by a bit. More recently we’ve done better, having learned what things are essential and what we can leave out. We’ve also learned to manage the water part of our burden better. Water is the heaviest thing you will carry, and it is essential that you have enough of it. On the well-traveled parts of the Camino potable water is available at many places along the way, and these are usually identified in guidebooks. If you know you can replenish, you can probably forgo 2 pounds that you might otherwise have carried. Also, you can play with the numbers somewhat. If you carry 4 pounds of water and drink half of it by mid-day and all of it by the end of the day, you probably don’t have to charge the initial 4 pounds against your total. While you are training, you can make a good estimate of how much water you need while walking a set distance, such as 5 miles. For example, you could weigh yourself before and after walks and learn how much you sweated away. Also note how dehydrated you are after walking by noting if your urine has turned from almost clear to school-bus color. Decide how many cups/ounces of water you want for your chosen distance. Then check the guidebook to see how many miles before you can refill your bottles. If all you need to carry is 16 ounces, don’t carry much more than that. |
Deciding what to bring; what do you really need?
Under the button below are our packing lists and the weights of items from 2012. Note the differences. Weights of packs are comparable, but in 2009 we took more and failed to account for the relatively heavy items carried in backpacks. Packing for 2013 was a bit more difficult because we are expecting cooler weather and the needed some warmer outerwear. Note that since we were traveling together we could double up on some things, nail clippers, laundry soap and a corkscrew, for example. One wise person noted that one way to keep you pack light is to leave out your fears. If you bring extra warm clothing because you fear a cold snap, a full first aid kit because you fear illness or injury, or extra socks because you fear your feet might get wet, in the end you find yourself carrying things you surely will never use. Some balance and common sense are necessary, but not necessarily easy. We’ve been told not to worry about first aid because you can always stop at a pharmacy. Our experience is that you may pass several pharmacies, but you probably won’t find one and find it open on the day you need a band aid. We won’t carry a month-long supply of bandages and over-the-counter medicines, but having a one or two day supply is a good idea. What do you really need? That’s one of a pair of questions, the other being what are you willing to carry on your back for hundreds of miles. How much you carry goes hand and glove with the kind of gear you acquire, as noted in the next section. Click on the button below to see our 2012 packing list. |
What's with scallop shells? Interpretations vary, and some are mythical, but the shells may have had a practical purpose in the Middle Ages, serving as spoons or drinking vessels. Our scallop shells (one shown above) aren't quite the norm. They are 4.5 million year old fossils (Chesapectan jeffersonius) from the Williamsburg, Virginia area. Thanks to our sister and brother-in-law for these gifts. If you see pilgrims wearing fossil scallop shells, you may be seeing a member of our family or someone from Virginia.
Shopping for gear (boots, walking poles, clothing, rain wear, sleeping bags, etc.)
Part of the fun of the Camino experience is that it gives you the opportunity to shop for all kinds of cool gear. You will be putting your gear to rugged use, you’ll be expecting it to be kind to the body you will be putting to rugged use, and you will be carrying it with you for hundreds of miles. Fortunately, technology has produced gear that is up to the challenge. Footwear. At one of our first presentations about the Camino, a woman asked if it would be possible to walk it in tennis shoes. We responded in the negative. We had walked in France on steep, rocky, muddy trails, and boots with sturdy soles, mid-height tops, and waterproof construction were a necessity. A year later when we walked from León to Santiago, we began to doubt our words. We wouldn’t recommend it, but could almost imagine walking that part of the Camino in regular shoes. We prefer lightweight boots with the qualities noted above, but are aware that other people favor hiking sandals or even lighter footwear. Aversion to boots may be particularly true of people who spend a good deal of non-Camino time in sandals or flipflops. We buy boots a half-size larger than we would normally wear. This allows for the use of thick hiking socks and accounts for swelling of the feet after long walks. Some people recommend getting even larger boots, but having your feet wiggle around inside seems as if it might be an invitation to blisters. We use merino wool or Thorlo synthetic hiking socks. Their thickness cushions the feet and, unlike cotton socks, they don’t deform when wet. We also have used sock liners—thin nylon socks worn under the hiking socks. They are intended to provide a slippery surface that keeps the feet from slipping against the outer socks, thereby preventing formation of blisters. Whether sock liners and good hiking socks are effective in preventing blisters is open to question. After thousands of miles walked on our first four Caminos, neither of us had ever gotten a blister. Then in 2013 Peg got a bad one, despite wearing identical boots to the ones worn without incident the previous year. Her successful solution was to trade them in for a pair of lightweight hiking shoes that were one-half size larger. An advantage of using sock liners is that you can wash and drip dry them overnight; with clean sock liners you can get away with washing your thick hiking socks less frequently. However much you like your hiking boots, at the end of the day’s walk you are ready to get out of them, and you need some other kind of footwear for lounging or walking about town. Crocs are a favorite, and we used them the first year. The next time we brought Salamon Amphibians, light water shoes, thinking that we could wear them on the trail in a pinch, for example if needed because of a blister (packing our fears?). They worked well, but were considerably heavier than the crocs. The next two times we found a compromise in Propet Voyagers. Somewhat resembling crocs and weighing about the same, they seem more secure, having Velcro straps. The Vibrabarefoot trail running shoes (see photo and caption) Russ tried in 2013 proved to be similar to the Propet Voyagers. They have worked well, but we are still searching for the perfect “camp shoe.” We're thinking that hiking sandals might be a good choice, but are leery of their added weight. Walking poles. Some hikers on the Camino favor the kind of single wooden staff that is associated with Medieval pilgrims. One can also get modern versions made of aluminum alloy, and some of these even have an attachment allowing them to be used in place of a tripod for a camera. We favor two walking poles (aka hiking sticks). They much improve stability when walking on rough or uneven surfaces. More importantly, if used properly, they support as much as 20% of your body weight, reducing stress on knees and feet. Walking along rhythmically with walking poles gives one the sense of what it must feel like to be a four-footed animal. Clothing. Selection of clothing for hiking is a huge topic, and one we will cover only briefly. If one had to reduce advice on clothing to one statement, it would be this: bring nothing on the Camino made of cotton. As noted before, cotton loses many of its good qualities when wet or damp. The right synthetics not only avoid this problem, but they reduce the weight you need to carry by drying overnight. Don’t expect clothes dryers, and unless you want to carry a week’s worth of laundry, plan on hand washing clothes every day or two. What would you do with an item of clothing that didn’t dry overnight? You wouldn’t want to carry it wet in your backpack, and the only good option would be to pin it to the outside of the pack. By the way, you need to do this with wool or heavy synthetic hiking socks, which don’t dry overnight. Many good high-tech products made especially for hikers are available in specialty stores and online, and although not inexpensive, they will reward you in comfort and convenience. Many hiking pants have legs that zip off somewhere near the middle, allowing to use them as short pants when the weather permits. We have seldom used ours as shorts, but have found them to have another advantage. If you are walking in mud and your pant legs get soiled, you can remove the soiled legs and wash them separately—they dry better than would the entire garment. Cargo pockets may be useful, especially because the waistband of you backpack will likely make it difficult to access hip- and back pockets. Jackets are a problem in that some days you want a warm, windproof and waterproof jacket, and on warmer days you might prefer a lighter one. Some jackets have zippers that open at the sides and underarms, allowing air to circulate. We have mostly solved the jacket problem by bringing along garments that allow for layering. Even so, especially in the warmer months, bringing along a bulky jacket that might be used only on occasional cool mornings seems wasteful. Also, most jackets have built-in hoods, and they seem superfluous, because almost everyone will have some other type of headwear. We have waterproof hats that double as rain- and sunhats. They work well, although anyone who wears a hat most of the time might prefer a lighter weight hat to deal with the sun. Our rain ponchos have hoods, so between the hats, jackets, and ponchos we find ourselves inadvertently carrying around three means of keeping rain off our heads. Rain gear is problematic, although we think we’ve found the solution that fits us best. Walking in the rain can pose problems regardless of what kind of gear you have. Waterproof jackets and a waterproof pack cover (most packs are not waterproof) are used by many hikers, but they are not a complete answer. The straps and waistbands of packs are exposed, and once wet they may remain damp for days. Also, rainwater may get between one’s back and the uncovered front of the pack and soak through to the contents. For our first Camino we ordered “Atmospheric Rain Capes” from Spain. Reputedly the ultimate protection, they are long raincoats with hoods and a hump in the back to accommodate the bulk of the backpack. We also carried rain pants to go over our other pants. The problem with the rain capes, and rain pants also, was that they are heavy, and being waterproof, they allow little air to circulate inside. After wearing them for a half hour, we felt we were as wet from sweat as if we would have been from rain if we had been wearing no rain gear at all. In 2009 and 2011 we bought inexpensive, lightweight, nylon ponchos from an army-navy store. They covered our packs allowed air to circulate underneath and performed well the few times we got to use them. However, while training for our 2012 Camino we discovered that they weren’t completely waterproof and didn’t stand up well to really heavy rain. So we splurged and bought specialized ponchos with humps for backpacks and the statement that they are guaranteed to be completely waterproof. The Via de la Plata turned out to be a not very rainy, and we never got to give them a good try in 2012, although Peg tested them before we left by standing in the shower with hers over her shorts and tee-shirt, which stayed fully dry. In 2013 we had plenty of rain, they worked well. Sleeping Bags. We have sleeping bags that weigh just over 1½ pounds, and are said to be warm enough for 50° F. nights. This is probably all we need; albergues in Spain provide wool blankets, and some hikers bring along a sleep sack rather than a sleeping bag in order to save weight. If you stay in albergues, you will need a sleeping bag or sleep sack and a towel. There are several varieties of quick-drying towels for backpackers. Water Bottles. You can buy bottled water and re-use the bottles, but safer and surer methods are available. Light stainless steel, non-toxic plastic, and thin film containers are available. We began with stainless, migrated to rigid plastic, and recently learned of ultra-light and flexible plastic bottles that we brought along in 2013. Having an extra bottle is important if you'll be walking long stretches without potable water supplies. Seasoned backpackers become obsessive about weight, but it is good to remember that water is by far the heaviest single thing you will be carrying, and the weight of the vessels you use for it will probably be almost negligible by comparison. For example, although the Platypus 1 liter bottle weights a scant 0.9 oz. when empty, it tops off at 37 oz. when full. |
Spotlight: Passwords
Unless you have a photographic memory, you might want to find a way to bring along a list of essential passwords so you can be in online contact with banks, your phone company, or other vital services. If you're like us, you have your computers at home "remember" commonly used passwords, with the result that the password used for a particular purpose may be easy for us humans to forget. You can make up a code for the list you'll carry with you if you're concerned your passwords might fall into the wrong hands.
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Backpacks.
Between us we’ve had five backpacks, and all of them have had their strengths and weaknesses. It is important to have one that fits your frame properly, and for that reason one should buy a pack at a good outdoor store that has a large selection and expert staff. You need to have your back measured so the frame is the proper length for your torso. Peg is 5’5”, fairly average height, but to our surprise we learned she needed a small/short pack length. When the pack fits your torso length, it rests more comfortably on your hips and does not pull on your shoulders. Weight is important, and ultra-light packs weighing less than three pounds have recently become available. Not surprisingly there are tradeoffs, and ultra-lights may be less comfortable than conventional packs because they have narrower straps and less rigid frames. They also tend to lack some of the convenient straps and zippers present on standard packs. Weight is related to size also, and in a conventional pack it is best to get one that is not too large. Both of our packs hold volumes of about 50 liters (3,500 cubic inches), and we feel we could probably get along nicely with the 35 liter (ca. 2,500 cubic inches) size, with a weight saving of nearly a pound. On the other hand, we may occasionally want extra room to carry a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine. |
Things to look for in up-to-date packs include a zippered side or front opening in addition to a top opening, a separate zippered compartment in the bottom so that a sleeping bag can be removed without disturbing other contents, and a built-in rain cover stored in a pouch.
Most backpacks can accommodate plastic bladders for holding water. A flexible straw leads to an attachment on one of the shoulder straps; hikers can drink simply by moving the drinking tube to their lips. An advantage to these so-called hydration systems is that users are encouraged to drink frequently, thereby better avoiding dehydration. We have never used one, but disadvantages are said to be awkwardness in refilling and difficulty in cleaning them.
Most backpacks can accommodate plastic bladders for holding water. A flexible straw leads to an attachment on one of the shoulder straps; hikers can drink simply by moving the drinking tube to their lips. An advantage to these so-called hydration systems is that users are encouraged to drink frequently, thereby better avoiding dehydration. We have never used one, but disadvantages are said to be awkwardness in refilling and difficulty in cleaning them.
Photography and electronics
The author of a popular English language guidebook advises walkers not to bring cameras; taking photographs might distract from the subtler experiences of the Camino. We disagree, averaging 700 images each on each of our four Caminos, They have allowed us to often relive our experiences and share them with others. Except in 2012 and 2013, we each used a small digital camera and had excellent results. My beat-up Canon SD 1100 Digital Elph has taken nearly 8,000 images. We rigged our cameras on the outside of our packs to be at the ready when we saw photographic opportunities, with zip-loc bags handy to protect from the rain. In 2012 Russ used a compact waterproof camera gotten for kayaking, and Peg used the iPhone camera (more about phones later). The heavier and bulkier waterproof camera worked well without protection from the elements. Results with the iPhone were disappointing, but she wasn't ready to give up, and results in 2013 were better. On our first Camino we filled up a 4 GB memory card before learning that we could store more photos by reducing the size of the images, without any noticeable reduction in quality. We're not among those people who can’t seem to walk without listening to music, so neither has been burdened with the need for portable music players. Our camera chargers, phone chargers, and other electronics had to plug into European electrical outlets. Inexpensive adapters are available, and we usually bring along more than one of these easy to leave behind items. In 2012 we brought along a small battery backup for smartphones, fearing lack of outlets in lodgings. They helped once or twice, but may have been unnecessary. We may have been packing our fears. The device did have a built-in LED flashlight, obviating the need for a separate flashlight. However, we also had flashlight apps for our smartphones, so another one may have been overkill. |
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Passports
Two kinds of passports are needed and one of them must be obtained well in advance. Of course a U.S. Passport is necessary to enter the European Union. It is worth noting that you not only need a valid passport, but it is also necessary that your passport will not expire for at least 90 days after you arrive in Europe. It won't matter that you plan to return home sooner than that. It is recommended that you renew your passport six months before it is to expire. If you sense some desperation in the way we are telling you about this, it is not without reason; we once had to change plans because of a passport that would have been perfectly fine, were it not of the 90-day rule. Pilgrim passports are both collectors’ items and an official record of your progress on the Camino that will be needed if you are to stay in albergues and in order to obtain a Compostela in Santiago. Made of folded cardstock, these passports have blank squares. In lodgings, churches, and other places along the way, special rubber stamps can be affixed to the spaces. Dated, they document the walker’s progress. |
Where to Buy Gear
If you live in an area with abundant retail stores that sell outdoor gear, you are fortunate. Unfortunately, our local independent Brasington's Adventure Outfitters went out of business in 2015. They were able to give you good advice, ensure that your purchase fit you and your needs, and were ready to adjust and adapt if initial purchases don't work out as planned. Their absence is a real loss. The very well-regarded REI cooperative has recently opened a store in nearby Jacksonville, although we haven't tried it yet. One of our problems is that we have so much gear that we would never consider carrying more than a small portion of it on any Camino. Following is a list of online retailers, for those who don't have a specialty retailer nearby, or who are unable to find the time to visit one of them.
www.campmor.com
Good selection (e.g. 95 backpack models); fair prices; but you have to know what you want/need
www.altrec.com
Good selections (200 backpacks & accessories); fair prices; but you have to know what you want/need
www.sierratradingpost.com
More of an outlet store; bargain prices if what you want happens to be in stock
www.REI.com
Large selection (e.g. 330 backpacks); pricey; satisfaction guaranteed; well regarded nationally
www.moosejaw.com
Website OK, but items offered may be out of stock; in our experience they may not have what you ordered
Online Retailers for footwear:
www.shoebuy.com, www.footsmart.com may have what you want at good prices, and may have free two-way shipping
Other online retailers:
www.amazon.com If you know what you want, it is probably available there, often with free shipping
If you live in an area with abundant retail stores that sell outdoor gear, you are fortunate. Unfortunately, our local independent Brasington's Adventure Outfitters went out of business in 2015. They were able to give you good advice, ensure that your purchase fit you and your needs, and were ready to adjust and adapt if initial purchases don't work out as planned. Their absence is a real loss. The very well-regarded REI cooperative has recently opened a store in nearby Jacksonville, although we haven't tried it yet. One of our problems is that we have so much gear that we would never consider carrying more than a small portion of it on any Camino. Following is a list of online retailers, for those who don't have a specialty retailer nearby, or who are unable to find the time to visit one of them.
www.campmor.com
Good selection (e.g. 95 backpack models); fair prices; but you have to know what you want/need
www.altrec.com
Good selections (200 backpacks & accessories); fair prices; but you have to know what you want/need
www.sierratradingpost.com
More of an outlet store; bargain prices if what you want happens to be in stock
www.REI.com
Large selection (e.g. 330 backpacks); pricey; satisfaction guaranteed; well regarded nationally
www.moosejaw.com
Website OK, but items offered may be out of stock; in our experience they may not have what you ordered
Online Retailers for footwear:
www.shoebuy.com, www.footsmart.com may have what you want at good prices, and may have free two-way shipping
Other online retailers:
www.amazon.com If you know what you want, it is probably available there, often with free shipping
Arriving in (almost) one piece
You may need to bring walking poles, a pair of scissors, jackknife, corkscrew, laundry soap, and other items not allowed in the cabins of planes. Should you put backpack and contents in checked baggage? No, what a fix you'd be in if your stuff didn’t arrive with you? Bring all the gear you can as carry-ons, sending as checked baggage only what you must. If would be inconvenient if checked items didn’t arrive, but not a Camino-ending event. Some people pack items that must be checked in a cardboard box that they discard when they arrive. We first used old outworn and disposable duffel bags. Later, we brought along a light (8 oz.) inexpensive ($10) duffel big enough to accommodate collapsed walking poles. We later used it on the return so we didn’t have to check one backpack on the return flight. As a bonus, on the trail we sent it ahead via a transport service with extra items when an injury forced us to use a transport service for the heavier stuff. |
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