The old albergue in Roncevalles had a role in The Way. It was a medieval monastery and had been hosting pilgrims for centuries. Martin Sheen's character stayed there his first night on his walk...on a top bunk, next to "Jost, from Amsterdam," there were about 100 beds in a single room, under a huge chandelier.

It closed recently, having been replaced by a spectacular renovation of another monastery in the tiny town. The new albergue has 3 floors. We were on the first, in bunks 151 and 152. It is clean and very well managed. Hospitaleros greeted us, registered us for 10€ each, gave us change to rent the key to our individual storage cupboard, and washed and dried clothes for us for less than 3€.

Many people begin their Camino in this town. All those who begin in St Jean Pied de Port come here on their 1st or 2nd night. Hundreds of beds are needed and there are only a few other accommodations in town.

Thus we shared our floor with at least 100, and our alcove with two others. There were 3 toilets and 3 showers per gender on our floo

At dinner we were at communal tables in a nearby restaurant. Our seating was at 7:00. At 8:00 we were rushed out to get ready for the next group. The meal was mediocre. But everyone was anticipatory and in good spirits. We were among the few for whom it was not the very beginning of the adventure.

We were in our sleep sacks by 9:30. It was cold. There was no bedding. I climbed down and put on my hiking pants and jacket, then slept pretty well.

At 6:00 music played, lights came on, a hospitalero walked the hall calling out good morning in many languages. Everyon laughed and got up. The spirit was wonderful.

I am glad this was not our first night on the Camino. But I have to say, it had its own kind of Camino charm. And the dawn was cool and welcoming.

After the mystical first day on the rain, our second day dawned dry and cool. We hiked about 12 miles in cool sunshine, clouds, and brisk breezes. Our surroundings were pastures, open ranges, and alpine. Then back down to woods trails. Some trails were paved, others mud or slick rock. There were cows, horses, sheep, and clouds in the fields. When clouds rolled in, we wondered if the farmers could find their livestock without the bells. We felt amazingly strong after our weeks of walking in France. Both the uphills and downs were hard, but we just took it on.

The final downhill brought us through Roland's Pass. I thought of Sister Maureen and the Song of Roland that we read in high school French class where I got my start with the language.

Most of the people on the trail, and there were probably hundreds each day, had started in St Jean Pied de Port. We could tell them by their clean boots. They almost all struggled with the hills. The rain was punishing for them.

We were happy to have all those miles on our legs.

We had a near gourmet breakfast to top off last night's marvelous dinner. The walk was only about 9 miles today. We are fully in Basque Country and the architecture is all whites and reds. Just outside of St Palais. Where we stayed last night, the trail went UP a huge steep hill. The trail was wonderfully cared for by the local association. They put rocks where there might be mid, terraced the steepest parts, set benches to rest and labeled the trees. Going down was as nice and then the second huge hill was also well cared for. We are amazed anew each day by the scenery and by how delightful the walking is.

Tonight we are at a gite named Escargot. Maybe dinner will be great again. Our room is Spartan but private. The shower,not so much. I was showering in a tub with a frosted window into the adjacent toilet room when a man came into that room and turned on the light. I wondered what he could see since I could identify him by his clothing and hair color. Ah, trail adventures.

Yesterday morning, we left our farmhouse in the countryside and walked 6 miles on gradually rising terrain.

Occasionally the trail went through mud just to remind us that it is in control

Then we took a "Variante route" for six miles and got lost of course. The scenery was even more beautiful. We approach the Basque region so stone houses with light blue shutters are giving way to white houses the red shutters and roofs.

Our lovely small farms now include a few commercial operations which is not a good thing.

A "Chemin angel" called from his window to ask if we were lost just after we past the dead cat in the road and the scary dog that didn't like us on his street. An intersection with no sign loomed. Bless his angel heart, he drove us to our gourmet chambers d'hôtes where the hostess handed us a beer. She later served us Serrano ham, soup,, duck confite, and a dessert of Basque torte and cheese.

We woke in the night feeling sick, both of us. It could have been some food poisoning. Whatever, by morning we were more exhausted than refreshed. Our plan had been to walk 18 miles--a real stretch for us. There were no intermediate towns to stay in and we felt ready. Ha! Not after last night.

We jumped on the luggage transport van, oops I mean the magic carpet, to carry is to our next town. When we were about 6 miles from the town, we felt pretty good-- Ibuprophen and Imodium D are the pilgrim's friend. We slipped off the magic carpet and walked a beautiful hilly 10 miles. There were several huge fields of sunflowers about 8 inches tall. When they are in bloom, I cannot even imagine how beautiful that walk will be. The 6 miles was just right for today.

We have an upscale BnB tonight. We took a long nap and will go to dinner soon. We will celebrate our son-in-law Steve's birthday. Wish he and Meg were here. They'd love this place. It even has a towel warmer although we have yet to figure how to turn it on.

No problem with the single toilet down the hall last night. Dehydration has some advantages!

The day dawned clear and cool. Perfect walking weather. Another dance-through-fields day. But this time I kept an eye on the sign posts and didn't miss a one.

I was dancing along a farm track through vineyards in a heavy mist knowing this year's Camino was a great idea. We missed the turn-here blaze. So, we ended up on the scenic route. At an intersection, we were able to figure out where we were on our map and headed back to the trail. It was still a wonderful walk. Unfortunately our little road became a driveway to a farmhouse with an "entree interdite" sign. Hmmm

As we turned back, a hedgerow on the right was head tall. Through it we saw what we would have assumed to be farm workers except for their yellow ponchos. Camino Angels! Canadian hikers. The trail had found us. In only a few yards we discovered a way through the hedgerow and we're back on track, having walked an extra mile and missed a muddy downhill slope.

The only other time we went the wrong was was along the canal path our first day. The path was so flat and shaded that we hated to leave it. The trail blazes had us turning to walk a bridge across the canal and through a village. We vetoed the turn. Our map shows that up ahead the trail would cross back over the canal. We planned to join it there. Too bad. When we got to that spot, the trail was on a bridge 30 or so feet overhead and we were between the canal and a river. Luckily the walk was nice, even when back tracking.

Yesterday afternoon we picnicked at a little chapel and cemetery in the middle of nowhere. The closest road was not visible. It touched my heart and I left intention-stones for my friends. I hope it worked and you all felt closer to having your best intentions come to be.

The Magic Carpet will carry us ahead this morning to the next town, which is farther away than we wanted to walk. Then we will walk about 12 miles to the Miramont where we will stay. It was raining. One day of rain was fun. This second one would be unwelcome. The clay mud in the fields is too slippery to be fun. But it stopped and the trail was sunny, cool, flat. Great day.

Well almost great. There are 9 rooms on our floor and only one toilet. We do however have a shower in our room.